Best Long Tube Headers for HEMI Charger & Challenger

Long tube headers are the single biggest bolt-on power adder for the 5.7L and 6.4L HEMI in your Dodge Charger or Challenger, gaining roughly 25 to 30 wheel horsepower with a supporting tune — nearly double what a set of shorty headers delivers. They scavenge exhaust more efficiently through longer 1-3/4in and 1-7/8in primary tubes and a 3in collector, waking up the mid- and top-end while ditching the crack-prone factory cast manifolds. In this guide we compare five of the best HEMI headers we stock at NLP Performance in Tampa, FL, break down long tube vs shorty vs mid-length, and cover exactly what tuning and check-engine-light realities to expect before you buy.

How much horsepower do long tube headers add to a HEMI?

Long tube headers add approximately 25 to 30 wheel horsepower to a 5.7L HEMI when paired with a proper custom tune, and independent dyno testing has shown gains north of 30 hp and 35 lb-ft of torque with 1-3/4in and 1-7/8in long tubes on otherwise stock HEMIs. The larger 6.4L (392) responds even harder, especially once you feed it more air. By comparison, shorty headers typically add only 15 to 18 wheel horsepower on a bone-stock 5.7L — roughly half the gain — because their compact 1-5/8in primaries and short collectors can’t scavenge like a full-length design.

The reason is simple physics. A long tube header uses longer, equal-length primary tubes that merge into a single collector well downstream of the head. That tuned length creates a stronger low-pressure scavenging wave that pulls spent gases out of each cylinder and helps draw the next fresh charge in. On the HEMI, that translates to real gains everywhere above about 3,500 RPM, where the engine spends most of its time when you’re actually driving hard.

Long tube vs shorty vs mid-length: which HEMI header is right for you?

Long tube headers make the most power but require a custom tune and will trigger a check engine light; shorty (and JBA’s Cat4Ward) headers make about half the power but bolt to your factory mid-pipe, keep the OEM cats, and usually run without a tune. That single trade-off — maximum power versus street-legal simplicity — is the decision every HEMI owner has to make.

Long tube headers — maximum power

Full-length primaries (1-3/4in for the 5.7L, 1-7/8in for the 6.4L) dumping into a 3in collector. These deliver the full 25–30+ whp and the meanest exhaust note, but they replace the OEM catalytic converters, so you’ll need a custom tune to disable the rear O2 sensors and re-scale fueling. Best for built or heavily-modified cars and anyone chasing every horsepower.

Shorty & Cat4Ward headers — streetable and simple

Shorty-style headers like the JBA Cat4Ward bolt directly to the factory mid-pipe and retain your OEM catalytic converters, so most owners install them without any tune and keep a clean bill of emissions health. You give up roughly half the peak gain, but you get an easier weekend install, no CEL headaches, and a factory-quiet-to-mild sound. If you already run BBK shorty headers or are cross-shopping them, see our dedicated BBK shorty header guide for the 5.7 HEMI Charger & Challenger.

The 5 best headers for the 5.7 & 6.4 HEMI Charger & Challenger

We stock more than 240 header applications at NLP Performance, and these five are the HEMI Charger and Challenger sets our Tampa customers reach for most. Three are true long tubes for maximum power; two are streetable Cat4Ward options for owners who want gains without a tune.

Why it’s our top pick: This is the most versatile kit in the lineup. The 1-7/8in primaries and 3in collectors are sized for the 6.4L but flow beautifully on a modified 5.7L, and the included 3in high-flow catalytic converters mean you keep some emissions manners and a slightly tamer drone than a catless setup. 304 stainless construction resists rust and heat discoloration, and with 18 sets in stock it’s ready to ship from our Tampa warehouse. Plan on a custom tune to unlock the full 25–30+ whp.

Best complete 5.7L kit: The 1-3/4in primaries are exactly the size the 5.7L wants, and BBK bundles a matched high-flow catted mid-pipe so you get a bolt-together system in one box — no sourcing a separate mid-pipe. The titanium-ceramic coating keeps under-hood temps down and looks factory-clean. This is a dropship item that ships direct from BBK; still, at a lower price than most catted long tube setups it’s the value leader for a naturally-aspirated 5.7L Charger or Challenger.

Best for 392 & Hellcat: aFe’s Twisted Steel design uses mandrel-bent 304 stainless primaries with a merged, equal-length collector for maximum scavenging on the big-inch HEMIs. This is the header to run on a Scat Pack, 392, or a supercharged 6.2L Hellcat/Redeye where the extra displacement and boost make the most of a full-length 1-7/8in tube. Pair it with a high-flow catted or race mid-pipe and a tune; these are built for owners chasing serious numbers.

Best no-tune, streetable pick: JBA’s Cat4Ward shorty headers bolt to the factory mid-pipe and keep your OEM catalytic converters in place, so the vast majority of 5.7L owners run them with no tune and no check engine light. You still get a healthy bump over the crack-prone cast manifolds plus a slightly deeper tone, all backed by JBA’s Million-Mile warranty and a silver-ceramic coating. At under $800 with three sets in stock, it’s the easiest way to add header gains to a daily-driven Charger or Challenger.

Best streetable pick for the 6.4L: Same easy-install, tune-optional Cat4Ward formula as the 5.7L set, but with larger 1-7/8in primaries matched to the 392 and 6.4L Scat Pack. If you want a bolt-on power bump on a big-inch HEMI without cracking open a tune file or triggering emissions codes, this is the set. Silver-ceramic coated and covered by JBA’s Million-Mile warranty.

HEMI header comparison chart

Here’s how the five sets stack up at a glance. Header type and primary tube size are the two attributes that most affect power and tuning requirements, so we’ve led with those.

What size primary tubes does your HEMI need?

Match the tube to the engine: a stock-to-mildly-modified 5.7L HEMI makes the best power with 1-3/4in primaries, while the larger 6.4L (392) and supercharged 6.2L want 1-7/8in primaries to flow their extra displacement. Going too big on a small motor can actually cost you low-end torque because you slow down exhaust velocity; going too small on a big motor chokes top-end flow.

That’s why our top pick — the Stainless Works 1-7/8in set — is best matched to a 6.4L or a built/forced-induction 5.7L, while the BBK 1-3/4in kit is the smarter choice for a naturally-aspirated 5.7L daily. Collector size follows the same logic: long tubes step up to a 3in collector to support the higher flow, where shorty headers keep a smaller collector because they bolt back to the stock exhaust.

Do long tube headers need a tune, and will they throw a check engine light?

Yes on both counts: long tube headers replace the OEM catalytic converters, so they require a custom tune to disable the downstream (rear) O2 sensors and re-scale fueling, and they will set a P0420/P0430 catalyst-efficiency check engine light until that tune is loaded — even with high-flow catted mid-pipes. The rear O2 sensors only monitor cat efficiency, not air/fuel, so tuning them out is standard practice and doesn’t affect how the engine runs.

Shorty and JBA Cat4Ward headers are the exception. Because they bolt to the factory mid-pipe and keep the OEM cats in place, most owners run them with no tune and no CEL, which is exactly why they’re the pick for emissions-tested states or a car that has to stay under the radar. Budget for the tune (typically a handheld device plus a custom file) whenever you step up to a true long tube setup — it’s the difference between leaving power on the table and unlocking the full 25–30+ whp.

HEMI header installation: what to expect

A shorty header install is a manageable weekend job for an experienced DIYer — typically 4 to 6 hours — because the headers bolt right up to the factory mid-pipe. A long tube install is more involved (plan on 6 to 10 hours or a shop appointment) since you’re also fitting a new mid-pipe, routing around the steering shaft and chassis, and long tubes hang a little lower, though ground clearance is a non-issue on a non-lowered Charger or Challenger.

There’s a hidden bonus, too: swapping to headers replaces the HEMI’s notorious cast exhaust manifolds, whose bolts are known to crack and cause the dreaded exhaust “tick.” Aftermarket stainless headers with fresh hardware and gaskets eliminate that failure point for good. Whichever set you choose, use new header gaskets and anti-seize on the fasteners, and torque them in sequence.