Best Long-Tube Headers for the 5.7 & 6.4L Hemi (2026)

Long-tube headers are the single biggest naturally-aspirated power upgrade you can bolt to a Gen III Hemi — and on the 2005–2018 Dodge Charger, Challenger, and Chrysler 300C they are also the most misunderstood. A long-tube header is a tubular, equal-length exhaust manifold that replaces the restrictive factory cast-iron units to improve exhaust scavenging, free up trapped horsepower, and wake up the top end of your 5.7, 6.1, or 6.4L Hemi. Done right (with a tune), a quality set adds roughly 25–35 wheel horsepower; done wrong (no tune), it throws check-engine lights and costs you low-end torque. At NLP Performance in Tampa, FL, our exhaust techs have bolted these kits onto enough R/T, SRT8, and 392 cars to know exactly which set is worth the money — and how to install it without the headaches.

What Do Long-Tube Headers Actually Do on a Hemi?

Long-tube headers replace the Hemi's crush-bent cast manifolds with long, equal-length mandrel-bent primary tubes that merge into a single collector. That geometry is the whole point: as the exhaust pulse leaves one cylinder, it creates a low-pressure wave that helps "scavenge" — literally pull — the spent gases out of the next cylinder in the firing order. Lower backpressure plus better cylinder evacuation means each intake stroke pulls in a denser air-fuel charge, and the engine makes more power. The factory manifolds, by contrast, were designed around emissions, packaging, and cost, not flow.

The Hemi responds especially well because the Gen III heads flow strongly but the stock exhaust manifolds are a known choke point. Swap them for 1-7/8-inch mandrel-bent primaries and the gains show up where you feel them most — in the mid-to-upper rpm band, roughly 4,000 rpm up to the 5,300–6,100 rpm power peak. This is also why long-tubes pair so well with a cam, a ported throttle body, a cold-air intake, and a 3-inch cat-back: each mod compounds the header's flow advantage.

How Much Horsepower Do Long-Tube Headers Add to a Hemi?

Long-tube headers add roughly 25–35 wheel horsepower to a Hemi when paired with a custom tune, with the exact number depending on displacement and supporting mods. Here is what the real-world dyno data shows across the three Hemi engines you will find in a 2005–2018 Charger, Challenger, or 300:

• 5.7L Hemi (340–375 hp stock): A documented Kooks long-tube dyno took a 5.7 from 282 rwhp / 307 lb-ft to 317 rwhp / 346 lb-ft — a peak gain of +34 rwhp at about 5,300 rpm and +39 lb-ft at 4,400 rpm. Expect +25 to +35 whp with a tune.
• 6.1L SRT8 (425 hp / 420 lb-ft stock): The 6.1 loves to breathe; long-tubes routinely return up to 40-plus rwhp on a tuned SRT8.
• 6.4L / 392 (470 hp 2011–14; 485 hp 2015+): A Hot Rod magazine test on a 392 Scat Pack went from 384 rwhp / 389 lb-ft to 410 rwhp / 417 lb-ft — +26 hp and +28 lb-ft — and tuned 6.4 builds commonly see +30 whp / +40 wtq, with the gains strongest above 4,000 rpm.

One honest caveat we repeat to every customer: those numbers assume a tune. Headers-only, with the factory calibration still in place, nets only about 20–25 hp and brings P0420/P0430 catalyst codes, skewed fuel trims, and a noticeable low-end torque dip. The header is the hardware; the tune is what unlocks it.

The 5 Best Long-Tube Headers for the 5.7 & 6.4 Hemi

We narrowed our in-stock Hemi header catalog to five kits that cover every Charger, Challenger, 300C, and Magnum from 2005–2018, ranging from a $432 bolt-on shorty to a $2,785 race-bred Kooks long-tube system. Every kit below is high-flow catted, so it is the closest-to-streetable option for non-CARB states. Here is how they stack up.

1. Stainless Works 2005–18 Hemi Long-Tube Headers — Best Overall

Stainless Works builds these headers in Streetsboro, Ohio from fully TIG-welded 304 stainless, and that quality is why they are our top pick for the widest range of Hemi cars. The 1-7/8-inch primaries are the all-around sweet spot — big enough to feed a built 6.4 yet sized to keep a daily-driven 5.7 responsive — and the 3-inch high-flow catted leads use the brand's Performance Connect interface to mate cleanly to a 3-inch cat-back. The kit ships install-ready with O2 extensions, clamps, bolts, and RTV, and it is backed by a lifetime warranty.

2. Kooks 09–16 Dodge Charger 5.7L Long-Tube Headers — Best for the VVT 5.7

Kooks has been building race-proven headers in the USA since 1962, with heritage across NHRA, NMRA, and NASCAR. This 1-7/8-inch by 3-inch long-tube system is engineered specifically for the 2009–2016 (and up) VVT 5.7L Charger and includes 3-inch by 2-1/2-inch high-flow catted OEM-connection mid-pipes, so it bolts back to the factory exhaust location. The laser-cut 3/8-inch flanges and TIG welds are the reason a Kooks set is the one tuners reach for when they want repeatable +34 rwhp-class numbers on a 5.7.

3. Kooks 06–15 Dodge Charger SRT8 Headers — Best for 6.1 & 6.4 SRT8

If you have a 6.1L SRT8 or a 6.4L / 392, this is the Kooks set built for your motor. The 1-7/8-inch by 3-inch stainless headers and catted connection pipes are engineered around the larger-displacement SRT8 engines that already make 425–485 hp from the factory, and they are where Kooks shows its biggest gains — tuned 6.1/6.4 cars regularly pick up 40-plus rwhp. It is a serious, no-compromise system for the people who bought the most powerful naturally-aspirated Hemi Mopar made.

4. BBK 05–08 Dodge 5.7 Hemi Long-Tube Headers — Best Value Long-Tube

BBK has been a value leader in American-made bolt-ons since 1988, and this 1-3/4-inch long-tube kit for the 2005–2008 5.7L Hemi cars is the most affordable way into a true long-tube system at $1,257.48. It uses CNC mandrel-bent tubing, thick 3/8-inch laser-cut flanges, and a silver-ceramic coating to control underhood heat, and it includes a 2-3/4-inch high-flow catted mid-pipe. BBK rates it at +20–25 hp and torque over the stock manifolds — a strong return for early 300C, Charger, and Magnum R/T owners.

5. BBK 05–15 Challenger/Charger 5.7 Hemi Shorty Headers — Best Budget & Easiest Install

Not everyone wants to drop a K-member to install headers. The BBK 1-3/4-inch tuned-length shorty header is the easy-button upgrade: it bolts to the stock mid-pipe, installs in a fraction of the time of a long-tube, and still adds roughly 8–12 wheel horsepower over the restrictive factory manifolds for just $432.02. It comes with new gaskets and bolts and a titanium-ceramic finish. If your Charger or Challenger is a tuned-and-done daily, this is the smart-money pick.

Long-Tube vs Shorty Headers: Which Is Right for Your Hemi?

Long-tube headers make more power than shorty headers — about 20–35 wheel horsepower versus roughly 8–12 — because their long, equal-length primaries and single collector create a far stronger scavenging effect. Shorty headers are packaged tightly around the steering shaft and frame, so their short, unequal runners simply cannot tune the exhaust pulse the way a long-tube can. The trade-off is install effort and cost: a shorty bolts to the factory mid-pipe in a couple of hours, while a long-tube is a multi-hour engine-lifting job.

Our rule of thumb at the shop: if you are chasing the biggest naturally-aspirated number and you are already adding a tune, a cam, or forced induction down the road, buy the long-tube once and be done. If you want a clean, affordable bump on an otherwise stock daily driver — or you simply do not want the install labor — the BBK shorty is the honest choice. Either way, plan to pair a long-tube header with a high-flow mid-pipe; our BBK 2-3/4-inch catted short mid X-pipe ($569.90) is a popular match for the Challenger and Charger.

Header Tube Sizing: 1-3/4 vs 1-7/8 vs 2-Inch Primaries

Primary tube diameter is the single most important spec on a header, because it sets where in the rpm band the engine makes its torque. The rule of thumb exhaust builders use: every 1/8-inch increase in primary diameter moves the torque peak up roughly 500–1,000 rpm. Bigger tubes slow exhaust-gas velocity and shift power higher in the rev range, while smaller tubes keep velocity high for stronger low- and mid-range torque. Here is how that maps to the Hemi:

• 1-3/4-inch: Ideal for a stock or mildly modified 5.7L Hemi. Keeps gas velocity high for the broadest street torque — this is why BBK uses it on the 5.7 car kits.
• 1-7/8-inch: The all-around sweet spot. Right for a built 5.7 VVT through the 6.1 and 6.4 — it is the size Stainless Works and Kooks default to for good reason.
• 2-inch: Reserved for big-displacement 6.4/392 builds, cammed combinations, or forced-induction cars that move enough volume to use the extra diameter without losing torque.

For 90% of street-driven Charger, Challenger, and 300 owners, 1-7/8-inch is the correct answer — it is large enough to support real power adders later, but not so large that it hurts the around-town drivability you live with every day.

Installation, Tuning & Legality: What to Know Before You Buy

Installing long-tube headers on an LX/LC-platform Hemi (Charger, Challenger, 300, Magnum) is a major job. The top row of header bolts is notoriously hard to reach, so the install typically requires loosening the motor mounts to lift or shift the engine and pulling the coil packs — on some cars the steering shaft comes out too. A professional tech on a lift averages about 5 hours; two people in a home garage take roughly 8 hours; and a first-time DIY install can stretch to 12–14 hours across two days. Most owners budget $1,000–$1,200 in shop labor.

A custom tune is effectively mandatory. Long-tubes relocate the rear (downstream) O2 sensors and remove the factory catalytic-converter location, which the stock PCM reads as a fault — triggering P0420/P0430 catalyst-efficiency codes and skewing fuel trims. A DiabloSport (Trinity T2 or inTune i3) or HP Tuners calibration corrects the fueling, disables the rear O2 monitors, and lets you turn the 5.7's MDS cylinder deactivation on or off. Budget another $400–$1,500 for the device and custom tune.

On legality: long-tube headers are sold for off-road and race use only and are not 50-state street legal, because they alter the factory cat location and carry no CARB EO number. The high-flow catted versions in this guide retain functioning catalytic converters, so they are the closest-to-streetable choice in non-strict-emissions states and stay quieter with fewer codes — but they still will not pass California emissions. Every kit on this page is flagged no-shipping-to-California. If you live in a strict-emissions state, a cat-back and a tune are the better path.