How to Install a 370Z & G37 Oil Cooler (Mishimoto)

Installing a 370Z oil cooler is one of the highest-value upgrades you can make before your first track day. The 2009–2020 Nissan 370Z (Z34) and 2008–2013 Infiniti G37 share the 3.7L VQ37VHR V6 — 332 hp and 270 lb-ft in the 370Z, 330 hp in the G37 coupe — and that engine is known to run hot oil under sustained load. A direct-fit Mishimoto oil cooler kit adds dedicated oil-cooling capacity so temperatures stay in a safe window during hard driving. This step-by-step guide covers why the VQ37 needs it, how the thermostatic and non-thermostatic kits differ, and exactly how to bolt one on in your own garage.

Why Does the 370Z and G37 Need an Oil Cooler?

The VQ37VHR runs hot oil temperatures under sustained load because it has no factory oil cooler on most trims and packs a high-revving V6 into a tight engine bay. On a warm-weather track session, stock oil temperatures routinely climb past 250°F and can approach 280°F. Once oil crosses roughly 260°F it begins to thin and shear, which drops oil pressure, accelerates oxidation, and puts bearings and the timing-chain system at risk. Adding a dedicated oil cooler pulls heat out of the oil before it reaches those danger zones.

Heat is the enemy of a hard-driven VQ37. The engine sits in a tight bay with limited airflow, and the naturally aspirated 3.7L loves to rev — every lap or spirited canyon run dumps more heat into the oil than the sump alone can shed. Left unchecked, high oil temperatures reduce the oil film that protects the crank bearings and the VVEL (Variable Valve Event and Lift) hardware, and they can trigger heat-related power loss as the car protects itself. Coolant temperature gauges will not warn you either, because oil and coolant heat up on different curves — oil often runs hotter and recovers slower.

The Mishimoto 370Z oil cooler kit is a bolt-on, direct-fit system that mounts a large bar-and-plate cooler core in the front of the car, plumbed through braided stainless lines and a billet sandwich-plate adapter that sits between the block and the factory oil filter. It works on both manual and automatic cars and requires no cutting. Because it is a complete engineered kit rather than a universal core, the brackets, line lengths, and fittings are all designed specifically for the Z34/G37 chassis. The kit fits coupe models only — the roadster’s front structure differs — so confirm your body style before ordering.

Thermostatic vs Non-Thermostatic: Which Mishimoto Kit?

The thermostatic kit is the right choice for any 370Z or G37 that sees street miles. Its integrated thermostat stays closed until oil reaches roughly 180°F (82°C), routing oil to the cooler only once the engine is warm. That keeps the engine warming up quickly in traffic and cold weather and prevents the overcooling that hurts efficiency and oil performance. The non-thermostatic kit flows oil through the cooler at all times for maximum cooling capacity, which is ideal on a dedicated track car that is always at operating temperature but can overcool a street car in cool climates.

Both kits are also offered in a stealth black finish for owners who want the hardware to disappear behind the front fascia. The black thermostatic kit carries the same specs and price as the silver version.

370Z & G37 Oil Cooler Kit Comparison

What Tools and Parts Do You Need?

The Mishimoto kit ships complete with the cooler core, sandwich-plate adapter, braided lines, fittings, and mounting hardware. You supply the tools and a fresh filter and oil.

• Floor jack and jack stands (or a lift) and wheel chocks
• Metric socket and wrench set, plus a torque wrench
• Panel/trim tools for front-fascia removal
• Oil-filter wrench and a drain pan
• A fresh oil filter and roughly a half quart of extra oil to fill the new cooler and lines
• Shop towels and brake/parts cleaner for a tidy final leak check

Step-by-Step: How to Install the 370Z / G37 Oil Cooler

Plan on 2 to 4 hours. Work on a cool engine to avoid burns, and read Mishimoto’s included instructions alongside these steps.

1. Lift the car and remove the front fascia

Chock the rear wheels, raise the front of the car, and support it on stands. Remove the front bumper cover and any lower splash shields to expose the mounting area where the cooler will sit. Take photos of clip and bracket locations before removing anything.

2. Remove the oil filter and install the sandwich plate

Position a drain pan, remove the factory oil filter, and install the Mishimoto billet sandwich-plate adapter against the filter mount. This plate houses the thermostat on the thermostatic kit and provides the inlet and outlet ports for the oil lines. Torque it to the specification in the instructions and reinstall a fresh filter onto the plate.

3. Mount the cooler core

Attach the cooler core to the supplied brackets and secure it in the front of the car where it gets clean airflow. Make sure it clears the crash structure, A/C condenser, and any radiator lines, and that it will not contact the fascia once reinstalled. Snug the bracket hardware in stages so the core sits square and cannot vibrate against surrounding components.

4. Route and connect the braided lines

Route the braided stainless lines from the sandwich plate to the cooler, keeping them away from moving parts, hot exhaust components, and sharp edges. Hand-thread every fitting first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten. Leave gentle bends — no kinks — so oil flows freely.

5. Fill, prime, and leak-check

Top off the engine oil to account for the extra volume the cooler and lines hold — roughly a half quart. Start the engine and let it idle, watching every fitting and the sandwich plate for leaks. On the thermostatic kit, the cooler will not receive flow until the oil warms to about 180°F, so bring the engine up to temperature before your final inspection.

6. Reassemble and verify

Reinstall the fascia and splash shields, lower the car, and recheck oil level. Take a short drive, then re-inspect all fittings and torque once more. Monitor oil temperature on your first few drives to confirm the system is doing its job.

What Results Should You Expect From a 370Z Oil Cooler?

An oil cooler does not add horsepower on its own; its job is to protect the power the VQ37 already makes. The real result is temperature stability — instead of oil climbing steadily through a track session until the car pulls timing or you back off, oil temperatures plateau at a safe level and stay there. That protects oil viscosity, maintains oil pressure to the bearings and VVEL system, and lets you drive consecutive hard laps without a cooldown lap. On the street, the thermostatic kit is effectively invisible in daily driving because it only engages the cooler once the oil is fully warm.

Break-In and Testing Tips

Recheck all fittings after your first heat cycle and again after the first 50–100 miles — braided lines and AN fittings can settle. If you track the car, watch oil temperature and oil pressure on your gauge or logger; a healthy VQ37 with the Mishimoto cooler should hold oil temperatures well below the 260°F breakdown threshold even in extended sessions. In cold climates, the thermostatic kit is what keeps the car from overcooling on winter commutes, so it earns its small price premium over the non-thermostatic version. If you have upgraded other systems, pair the cooler with fresh, high-quality synthetic oil and a quality filter so the whole oiling system works together — and browse our full cooling parts collection and engine upgrades to round out the build.

370Z Oil Cooler: Pros and Cons