How to Install a C7 Corvette Z06 Exhaust (2015-2017)

Installing a C7 Corvette Z06 exhaust is one of the most satisfying bolt-on jobs you can do in an afternoon, and the Akrapovic Slip-On Line (Titanium) is the exhaust that turns the supercharged LT4 into the sound it always deserved. This step-by-step guide walks you through installing the Akrapovic slip-on on a 2015–2017 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (C7) — the tools you need, the exact order of operations, torque and valve-wiring notes, and the real-world tips our Tampa, FL shop has learned bolting these systems onto 650-horsepower Z06s.

What Is the Akrapovic Slip-On Line for the C7 Z06?

The Akrapovic Slip-On Line is a bolt-on rear muffler section that replaces the factory Corvette mufflers with a hand-built titanium system capped by carbon-fiber tailpipe tips. It is designed for the 2015–2017 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 (C7) with the 6.2L supercharged LT4 V8, and it clamps directly to the OEM mid-pipe using the stock hangers — there is no cutting, no welding, and no permanent modification. Because it retains the factory tip locations and the car's stock exhaust valves, the system keeps quiet-start manners while adding an unmistakably harder, metallic full-throttle tone.

Titanium is the whole point. It is roughly 40% lighter than the equivalent stainless steel, so the Akrapovic slip-on sheds meaningful weight from the very back of the car — exactly where unsprung and rear-biased mass hurts a track-focused Z06 most. Expect the peak-power difference from a slip-on to be modest (typically a few horsepower on an already free-flowing factory system); the real value is the weight savings, the titanium sound signature, and the jewelry-grade fit and finish. The LT4 makes 650 hp and 650 lb-ft from the factory, and this exhaust is built to sound like every one of them.

Tools and Parts You Need Before You Start

You can install the Akrapovic Slip-On Line with a basic hand-tool set — no specialty equipment required. Set aside a clear 2–3 hour window and gather everything below before the car goes up in the air. The single most common cause of a slow install is stopping halfway to hunt for a penetrating spray or a second jack stand.

• Floor jack and two jack stands (or a lift), plus wheel chocks
• Metric socket set with a ratchet and a 6-inch extension (10–15mm covers most fasteners)
• Combination wrenches and a swivel/universal joint for the tucked-up clamp nuts
• Penetrating oil (the factory clamp hardware is often seized after years of heat cycles)
• A torque wrench in the 10–40 ft-lb range
• Trim/panel tools if you are removing the rear diffuser or lower fascia for access
• Nitrile gloves — titanium mufflers scratch and fingerprint easily, and you want them clean
• The Akrapovic installation instructions included in the box (torque values and tip alignment are printed there)

Let the car cool completely first. Exhaust and catalytic components hold heat for hours, and titanium tips will burn you long after the engine feels cool to the touch. In our Tampa shop we let a car that has just been driven sit for at least 60–90 minutes before anyone gets under it.

How to Install the Akrapovic C7 Z06 Exhaust: Step by Step

Installing the Akrapovic slip-on on a C7 Z06 is a five-stage job: lift and safety, disconnect the valve wiring, drop the OEM mufflers, hang the Akrapovic section, then align and torque. Work one side at a time so you always have a reference for hanger height and tip depth. Here is the exact sequence we follow on the lift.

1. Lift and secure the car. Chock the front wheels, raise the rear, and set the car on jack stands rated for its weight. Never work under a car held only by a floor jack. Confirm the exhaust is stone-cold before you touch it.
2. Disconnect the exhaust valve actuators. The Z06 uses electronically controlled valves (NPP dual-mode exhaust). Unplug the valve motor connectors on the rear muffler section so the harness stays with the car when the mufflers come off. Tuck the connectors up and out of the way.
3. Loosen the band clamps at the mid-pipe. Hit the factory clamp hardware with penetrating oil, let it soak, then loosen the band clamps that join the OEM mufflers to the mid-pipe. A swivel joint makes the tucked-up nuts far easier to reach.
4. Support and remove the OEM mufflers. With a helper or a transmission jack supporting the weight, slide the muffler section off the mid-pipe and free it from the rubber hangers. Twisting slightly while pulling releases the hangers cleanly. Set the factory mufflers aside — keep them; this install is fully reversible.
5. Fit the Akrapovic section loosely. Slide the supplied clamps onto the inlets, then hang the titanium mufflers on the stock rubber isolators. Push the inlets onto the mid-pipe but leave the clamps loose — you want the whole assembly free to move while you set the tips.
6. Reconnect the valve wiring. Plug the factory valve connectors back into the Akrapovic valve actuators. This is what preserves the quiet-mode/loud-mode behavior and prevents a check-engine light from an open valve circuit.
7. Align the carbon-fiber tips. Adjust the mufflers on the hangers and rotate at the clamps until the tips sit centered and even in the rear fascia cutouts, with equal projection on both sides. Sight the gap from directly behind the car — symmetry here is what makes the install look factory-plus.
8. Torque, then verify. Working from front to back, snug and then torque the band clamps to the value in the Akrapovic instructions (typical exhaust band clamps land in the ~18–30 ft-lb range — always use the printed spec). Confirm every hanger is seated and nothing contacts the body or heat shields.

Torque, Valve Wiring, and Final Checks

Final torque and a proper heat-cycle are what separate a clean install from a rattle you chase for weeks. After the tips are aligned and the clamps are torqued to spec, run a short verification pass before the first real drive. Slip-on exhausts loosen slightly on their first few heat cycles, so a re-check is not optional.

• Clamp torque: Follow the printed Akrapovic value. Under-torqued band clamps leak and let the mufflers shift; over-torquing can crush a thin-wall titanium inlet.
• Valve function: With the engine running, toggle the drive mode (Touring vs Track/Sport). You should hear the valves open into a louder tone. If a valve stays stuck or you get a fault code, re-seat the connector you unplugged in Step 2.
• Clearance check: Look for at least a finger's width between the titanium and any heat shield, the diffuser, and the rear bumper. A tip touching the fascia will chafe and discolor.
• Leak check: Let it idle and listen at each clamp joint for a tick or hiss that signals a poor seal. Feel for escaping exhaust with a gloved hand near — not on — the joints.
• Re-torque after a heat cycle: Drive it, let it fully cool, then re-check every clamp. This second pass is where 90% of first-week rattles get eliminated.

Wipe the titanium and carbon tips down with a clean microfiber before the first drive. Fingerprints and shop dust bake onto hot titanium and are far harder to remove after a heat cycle. The tips will develop a subtle blue-gold titanium bloom over time — that is normal and, for most Z06 owners, half the appeal.

How Does the Akrapovic Compare to Other C7 Exhausts?

The Akrapovic Slip-On Line is the premium titanium choice, but it is not the only quality exhaust for the C7. If you want a similar rear-section swap in T-304 stainless at a lower price, Borla's valved ATAK axle-back systems are the popular alternative and install using the same basic procedure above. Here is how the three most common C7 rear-section options compare.

Pros and Cons of the Akrapovic Slip-On Line

The Akrapovic is the exhaust to buy when you want the best titanium sound and the lightest rear section, and you are willing to pay for it. Here is the honest breakdown after installing these on Z06s in our Tampa shop.

Related C7 Z06 Upgrades to Pair With Your Exhaust

While the car is on the stands, it is the ideal time to address the C7 Z06's other well-known weak points. The supercharged LT4 puts serious heat into the brakes on track, so a two-piece slotted rotor upgrade is a natural pairing with your new exhaust. Both jobs share the same rear-end access and the same afternoon.