How to Install KW V3 Coilovers on a Ferrari 599 GTB

Learning how to install KW V3 coilovers on a Ferrari 599 GTB Fiorano is really a lesson in patience and precision: this is a 611-horsepower, front-mid-engine V12 grand tourer that left Maranello riding on adaptive magnetorheological dampers, so the swap is as much about setup as it is about turning wrenches. The payoff is real. Swapping to the KW Variant 3 gives you a corrosion-proof stainless coilover with independently adjustable rebound and compression, a continuously adjustable ride height, and the ability to corner-balance a car that weighs roughly 3,726 lb with a nose-heavy V12. This step-by-step guide walks through the tools, the removal, the KW V3 install, ride-height and corner-balance setup, damper tuning, and the alignment and break-in that make the difference between a car that just sits lower and one that actually handles better.

Why the KW V3 Is the Right Coilover for a 599 GTB Fiorano

The KW Variant 3 is a two-way adjustable coilover that lets you tune rebound and compression damping independently, so it is the correct upgrade for a heavy, powerful GT like the 599 that has to be both compliant on the road and controlled under load. The 599 GTB Fiorano shipped with second-generation SCM (magnetorheological) adaptive dampers — excellent when new, but expensive and increasingly hard to service as these cars age. The KW V3 replaces that closed system with a fully mechanical, rebuildable stainless-steel unit you can service, revalve, and dial in yourself.

On the 599 specifically, the KW V3 (part number kws33642024) uses KW's "inox-line" stainless-steel strut housings, which KW rates as 100% rust-free for the life of the vehicle — a meaningful upgrade on a Florida car that sees humidity and salt air. Rebound is adjusted at the top of the piston rod across 16 exact clicks; compression is adjusted with a patented low-speed valve at the base of the strut across 12 exact clicks, with no tools required. Both circuits are independent, so you can firm up body control without wrecking ride quality. The system is TÜV load-tested and continuously height-adjustable, which is exactly what you need to corner-balance a front-mid-engine V12.

Before You Start: Tools, Parts, and Prep

Gather your tools and plan for a full day before the car goes in the air. A 599 rides on a double-wishbone suspension front and rear, so every corner is a discrete strut-and-spring assembly bolted between the upper and lower control arms — no spring compressor is needed because KW ships the coilovers fully assembled. What you do need is a way to measure and set the car precisely afterward.

What you will need

• Two-post or four-post lift, or a full set of jack stands and a floor jack rated for the 599's weight
• Metric socket and wrench set, plus hex/Torx bits for the strut top mounts
• A quality torque wrench (in-lb and ft-lb ranges) — every fastener goes back to factory spec
• Corner-weight scales for balancing, and a tape measure or ride-height gauge
• Spring-perch adjustment wrenches (included with the KW kit)
• Anti-seize for the threaded bodies and a Ferrari-capable diagnostic tool
• An alignment rack booked for the same day, or immediately after

One critical prep note specific to the 599: because it uses factory SCM magnetorheological adaptive dampers, unplugging and removing them commonly triggers a suspension warning on the dash. Sort out your fault-handling approach with a Ferrari specialist before you start — do not discover it after the car is back on the ground. In our Tampa shop we confirm the diagnostic plan first, then set the KW V3 to its baseline ride height on the bench so each corner drops in close to target.

Step-by-Step: Installing the KW V3 on the 599 GTB

Work one corner at a time so the opposite side stays as a reference. The sequence below applies to both the front and rear double-wishbone corners; the rear simply has more surrounding bodywork and the factory damper wiring to route around.

1. Lift and secure the car. Raise the 599 evenly, support it on stands, and remove the wheel. Never trust the jack alone under a car this valuable.
2. Support the lower control arm. Place a jack under the lower arm to hold suspension load while you disconnect the damper — this keeps the arm from dropping under spring tension.
3. Disconnect the factory SCM damper. Unplug the magnetorheological wiring connector, then separate the sway-bar end link and any brake-line or sensor brackets attached to the strut.
4. Remove the upper mount and lower bolt. Loosen the top strut nuts in the wheel well or engine bay, then the lower mounting bolt, and lift out the complete factory damper-and-spring assembly.
5. Pre-set the KW V3. With the coilover on the bench, set the spring perch and body length to KW's baseline ride-height figure from the setup manual before it goes in the car. This saves hours of re-adjustment later.
6. Install the KW V3 coilover. Seat the upper mount, start the lower bolt by hand, then torque the upper nuts and lower bolt to factory specification. Apply anti-seize to the threaded body so future height changes stay easy.
7. Reconnect and repeat. Reattach the sway-bar link and any brackets, reinstall the wheel, and move to the next corner. Torque all fasteners — do not leave anything at hand-tight.

Because the KW V3 is a passive coilover, the factory SCM connector is now unused at each corner. Follow the fault-handling plan you set up in prep so the dash does not throw a permanent suspension error once the car is running.

Setting Ride Height and Corner Balancing

Set ride height with the car at full weight and let it settle before you measure — a coilover that reads perfect on the lift will sag once the suspension takes load. Roll the 599 off the lift, bounce each corner to settle the springs, and measure fender-to-hub or the manufacturer reference at all four corners. Adjust height on the front struts by moving the lower mount, and on the rear by threading the spring perch, in small increments.

Corner balancing is where a heavy front-mid-engine V12 earns its setup time. With the car at target height, put it on corner scales with a driver-weight simulation in the seat and a half tank of fuel, then adjust spring-perch preload to bring cross-weight as close to 50% as the chassis allows. A well-balanced 599 turns in evenly in both directions and puts its power down more predictably out of corners — the single biggest handling gain from a coilover swap, and something the sealed factory dampers could never offer.

Damper Tuning: Dialing In Rebound and Compression

Start damper tuning from KW's baseline and change one variable at a time. The KW V3 gives you 16 clicks of rebound at the top of the strut and 12 clicks of compression at the base, adjusted independently — so you can chase body control and ride quality separately instead of trading one for the other. Count clicks from full-firm (fully clockwise) so both sides always match.

A simple starting method

• Rebound first. Set rebound roughly mid-range, then firm it a click or two at a time until body float over crests settles without the ride turning harsh.
• Compression second. Use the 12-click low-speed compression circuit to fine-tune how the car reacts to bumps and weight transfer under braking and turn-in.
• Keep both sides equal. Left and right must run identical click counts, or the car will feel unbalanced side to side.

For a street-driven 599, most owners land a few clicks softer than full-firm on both circuits for a supple ride with far less pitch and roll than stock; a car that sees track days gets firmed up from there. Because the V3 is fully rebuildable, you can also send the dampers back to KW for a revalve if your goals change.

Alignment, Break-In, and Maintenance

Get a four-wheel alignment immediately after the install — lowering a 599 changes camber and toe, and driving on the old numbers will feather $2,000 worth of tires in a weekend. Have the shop set the car to factory alignment specification, or a mild fast-street setup with a touch more negative front camber for turn-in if you drive it hard. Confirm the target figures against Ferrari service data before the tech starts.

Plan a short break-in. Coil springs and mounts settle over the first 100 to 300 miles, so re-measure ride height and re-check corner balance after that window and adjust if needed. Re-torque the strut hardware after the first heat cycles. Long term, the stainless inox-line bodies shrug off corrosion, but a wipe-down of the threaded collars and a dab of anti-seize once a year keeps height adjustment effortless for the life of the kit.

Complementary Upgrades for the 599 GTB

While the car is in the air is the perfect time to knock out two other maintenance-grade upgrades. A BMC drop-in performance air filter restores airflow to the 6.0L V12 without any tuning risk, and EBC Redstuff front pads sharpen brake feel and cut dust versus tired OEM pads. Both are direct-fit for the 599 and cost a fraction of the coilover job.

KW V3 on the 599: Pros and Cons