How to Upgrade Your R35 GT-R Cooling System (2009-2021)

The R35 GT-R cooling system is the single biggest limitation between a stock Godzilla and a car that can run lap after lap without pulling timing. The 3.8L twin-turbo VR38DETT makes between 480 and 565 horsepower from the factory (2009 through 2021), and all of that heat has to leave through the radiator, two intercoolers, and the oil coolers. This step-by-step guide walks you through how to upgrade your 2009-2021 Nissan R35 GT-R cooling system in the right order — radiator first, then charge-air, then oil and coolant management — using proven bolt-on parts we stock and install at NLP Performance in Tampa, FL.

Why the R35 GT-R Runs Hot on Track

The R35 GT-R runs hot because its factory cooling package was sized for street use, not sustained wide-open-throttle laps. The VR38DETT's twin turbochargers dump enormous heat into the coolant and charge air, and the launch-control-friendly dual-clutch transmission adds its own thermal load. On a hot day, a stock GT-R will see coolant temperatures climb past 220°F within two or three hard laps, at which point the ECU starts protecting the engine by cutting boost and timing — you feel it as a car that simply stops pulling.

The fix is not one part; it is a system. A larger aluminum radiator holds more coolant and rejects more heat. A thicker bar & plate intercooler core keeps intake air density up so the turbos are not fighting heat soak. A racing thermostat opens sooner to start moving coolant earlier. And catch cans plus an upgraded coolant tank keep the oil and cooling circuits clean and stable. Below, we tackle each in the order that delivers the most temperature drop per dollar.

It helps to know where the heat actually comes from. The VR38DETT is a compact 3.8L V6 with two turbochargers tucked tight against the block, so under-hood temperatures climb fast and there is little airflow to spare. The GR6 dual-clutch transaxle sits at the rear but shares the car's cooling demand, and its own fluid cooler adds load on hot days. Add Florida-style ambient temperatures in the 90s and the factory system simply runs out of margin. Every part below attacks a different piece of that heat load, which is why a complete R35 GT-R cooling upgrade works better than any single component on its own.

Step 1: Upgrade the Main Radiator (Biggest Gain First)

The main radiator is the first and most important R35 GT-R cooling upgrade because it directly controls engine coolant temperature. All three of the direct-fit aluminum radiators below drop into the factory location with no cutting, hold more coolant than the OEM plastic-tank unit, and use TIG- or furnace-brazed aluminum cores that shed heat far faster than stock. For a street-and-track GT-R, this single swap does more to stop heat-soak timing pull than any other cooling part.

The CSF 08-18 Nissan GT-R Radiator is our top pick because it delivers the biggest coolant-temperature reduction for the money while staying 100% plug-and-play. CSF's all-aluminum high-flow core replaces the factory unit's plastic end tanks — a common R35 failure point — and its larger cooling surface keeps temps in check on the street and slows the climb on track. The Mishimoto 09+ R35 Aluminum Radiator (around $620) is the pick if you want a lifetime warranty and TIG-welded tanks; owners commonly report peak coolant temps dropping by roughly 10-20°F versus a tired OEM radiator.

So which radiator should you buy? For a street-driven or occasional-track R35, the CSF is the easy call — it fits every 2008-2018 car, ditches the plastic tanks, and runs an active discount. Choose the Mishimoto if the lifetime warranty and TIG-welded tanks matter most to you, or if you own a 2019-2021 car. Save the Koyo racing radiator for a dedicated 2009-2013 track build where maximum core density outweighs street manners. All three are direct-fit, so the decision comes down to warranty, model year, and budget rather than fitment.

Step 2: Improve Charge-Air Cooling (Intercoolers)

Charge-air cooling is the second step because intake temperature controls how much power the twin turbos can safely make. As boost rises with a tune, the factory intercoolers heat-soak quickly, raising intake air temps and forcing the ECU to pull timing. A high-density bar & plate core holds far more thermal mass than the OEM tube-and-fin design, so intake temperatures recover between pulls instead of stacking up over a session.

Step 3: Manage Oil Vapor and Coolant

Oil and coolant management is the third step because the VR38DETT's crankcase ventilation pushes oil vapor into the intake, coating the intercoolers and valves over time. A catch can traps that vapor before it can foul the charge-air system, keeping your new intercooler core clean and your intake temps honest. On a hard-driven R35 GT-R, this is cheap insurance that protects the more expensive cooling parts upstream.

While you are in the engine bay, the Radium R35 GT-R Coolant Tank Kit (around $380) replaces the brittle factory reservoir with a serviceable billet-and-aluminum unit, and the Mishimoto R35 Silicone Hose Kit (around $155) swaps aging OE rubber for reinforced silicone that will not fail under boost heat. Both are inexpensive upgrades that make the rest of your cooling system more reliable.

Step 4: Add a Racing Thermostat

A racing thermostat is the finishing touch because it starts coolant flow to the radiator sooner. The Mishimoto 68°C (154°F) racing thermostat opens earlier than the factory unit, so the engine begins shedding heat before temperatures spike rather than after. It will not make the car overcool on the street, but on track it buys you crucial minutes before the coolant reaches the ECU's protection threshold.

Installation: Time, Tools and Tips

Most of these R35 GT-R cooling upgrades are driveway-friendly with hand tools, but the radiator swap is the involved one. Budget the following times and take your time with the coolant fill to avoid air pockets:

Stage the work to match your goals. A stock-power street car that sees the occasional canyon run is well served by the radiator, thermostat, and silicone hoses alone. A tuned car making 600-plus wheel horsepower should add the bar & plate intercooler core and the catch can, since higher boost drives both charge-air and crankcase heat harder. Dedicated track cars benefit from every part in this guide plus fresh coolant before each event. Doing the jobs together also saves labor: the cooling system only has to be drained and bled once.

• Radiator: 2-3 hours. Requires draining coolant, removing the front fascia support and cooling fans, then transferring hardware to the new unit.
• Silicone hoses: Best done during the radiator job — the system is already open. Add about 30-45 minutes.
• Thermostat: 1-1.5 hours; plan to top off and burp the cooling system afterward.
• Catch can: 1-2 hours, no coolant work — it plumbs into the PCV and crankcase lines.
• Coolant tank: Under 1 hour, ideally combined with the radiator fill.

Always use the correct Nissan-spec coolant, bleed the system fully with the front of the car raised, and re-check the level after your first few heat cycles. Not comfortable pulling the front end apart? Our Tampa, FL shop installs the full R35 GT-R cooling package — radiator, intercooler core, catch can, and thermostat — and pressure-tests the system before it leaves.